Are you longing for summer? Discover the latest trend that evokes a maritime essence, reminiscent of a luxurious cruise.
In recent years, the nautical theme in fashion has experienced a notable resurgence. Consider the popularity of mermaidcore, horizontal stripes, sailor-style caps, garments adorned with large sequins reminiscent of fish scales, and a variety of embellishments inspired by shells and marine life. Amidst this backdrop, another iconic element has made its return to the fashion scene: the Vareuse, or nautical collar. This distinctive adornment was once characteristic of the attire worn by sailors and fishermen, but thanks to Coco Chanel, it has become an integral part of women’s fashion. Like many of her innovative concepts, this collar represented not merely a fashion statement but a revolution in the perception of feminine elegance and autonomy.
The Vareuse collar has its origins in the work attire of sailors, designed for comfort during life at sea. Its clean lines, simplicity, and practicality became symbols of maritime life and masculine valor. However, in 1917, when Coco Chanel unveiled her collection that reinterpreted men’s uniforms with feminine accents, the Vareuse collar underwent a transformation. It evolved into a component of the sophisticated yet practical wardrobe of bourgeois women who valued both style and functionality.
Chanel adapted this element for women, creating jackets, blouses, and dresses featuring nautical collars, which came to symbolize “freedom” and “independence” in women’s fashion. This style solidified her reputation as a pioneer who dismantled outdated conventions and introduced fresh ideas to the fashion industry.
Today, the maritime theme has regained prominence, and the Vareuse collar is reappearing in the collections of leading fashion houses. Notably, during the Chanel autumn-winter 2024/2025 show, we witnessed updated interpretations of this iconic collar. The use of intricate fabrics, contemporary styles, and high-quality materials has breathed new life into its design.
Numerous other designers have followed suit, reimagining the traditional collar shape and incorporating it into both casual and evening wear. Consequently, the Vareuse has adopted a slightly modified appearance. Whereas this collar was once predominantly associated with knitted jerseys, T-shirts, or blouses popular in the 1920s and 1930s, contemporary collections now feature not only tailored jackets with nautical collars but also relaxed dresses, stylish cardigans, and even outerwear. Observations from street style photographs captured during Fashion Week indicate that modern variations frequently embellish sweaters, cardigans, coats, shirts, and tops.
These items often serve as the foundation for ensembles that blend traditional maritime motifs with contemporary trends. For instance, Tina Kunakey paired such a jumper with dark-wash jeans, a fashionista from Copenhagen complemented her blouse with a sailor-style top in a matching hue, and Susie Lau, a guest at the Paris shows, artfully combined trendy bows, eyelets, bold heeled mules, and a classic handbag.
As you may have surmised, these popular models can be crafted from wool, lightweight knitted yarn, and various synthetic materials, with no strict guidelines governing their styling.