What is the role of peptides?
It is becoming increasingly difficult to find good skincare products that really deliver visible results: the market is full of unproven products and questionable ingredients.
According to modern research, one of the most effective ingredients is peptides.
We know how and why they work and, most importantly, we know how to choose creams that contain peptides to make sure the product is effective in preventing aging.
What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins in our skin. As we age, the production of these important molecules slows down, which leads to the appearance of wrinkles and loss of skin firmness. That’s why experts around the world are focusing on peptides as key ingredients in anti-aging treatments.
How do they work?
When applied to the skin, peptides can act as a marker for the product. They “talk” to the brain, prompting it to perform certain tasks.
There are several types of peptides:
Peptides: Stimulate collagen and elastin production. Neuropeptides: Relax facial muscles and reduce expression lines.
Carrier peptides: Transport molecules to the outer layers of the skin.
Enzyme inhibitor peptides: Reduce collagen breakdown.
For this reason, products containing various types of peptides are particularly useful; they provide a rejuvenating effect.
Modern development
The real breakthrough in anti-aging care is the use of peptide complexes. For example, the drugstore brand Librederm collagen peptide range uses a different blend of 10 peptides, each with their own important role:
Carnosine prevents glycation, a chemical reaction in which proteins bind to sugars, causing collagen fibers to thicken and skin elasticity to decrease. It also neutralizes free radicals that can harm brain health, speeding up regeneration.
Oligopeptide-1 protects against oxidative stress (cellular damage from oxidation) and prevents damage to skin collagen.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 can “synergy” with multiple collagens at once: It increases the synthesis of Type I and Type IV collagen, while also increasing the expression of Type III collagen. Thus, the extracellular matrix, which is the basis of the connective tissue, is restored.
Hexapeptide-9 reduces wrinkles, increases elasticity and improves firmness.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 stimulates protein production in the skin. It supports the synthesis of type VII collagen and repairs the dermal-epidermal junction. This is the area where the epidermis and dermis meet and is responsible for the exchange of nutrients, oxygen and waste between the skin layers. Mechanical effects or inflammatory processes in the skin can cause damage to the dermal-epidermal junction, resulting in loss of skin integrity.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 can also provide a tightening effect by strengthening the dermal-epidermal junction.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 increases the expression of type XVII collagen, which improves the adhesion (ability of cells to stick together) between the epidermis and the dermal-epidermal junction. It increases its elasticity and firmness.
Nonapeptide-1 can smooth the skin and prevent the formation of age spots. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 prevents swelling and reduces irritation. It prevents inflammatory aging caused by various environmental factors.
When should you start using peptide products?
In short, when you see a change, you want to fix it. Beauty experts do not recommend a specific age to start anti-aging treatments;
it all depends on your skin type and needs.
What other ingredients can help prevent aging? A new aspect of patient care today is biomimetic molecules. These molecules can follow the functions and processes of living organisms at the molecular level, thus supporting the collagen network, protecting against extracellular bacteria, and even leaving the skin to relieve redness.
Of course, do not forget the SPF. You can use it as a product or you can choose a day cream with SPF. The second option will be easier because it does not weigh down the skin or leave it. If you are not in the very hot sun, SPF 15 will be enough.
Cream or serum? Which should I choose?
First, let’s explain the differences between these products. In short, serums contain a higher percentage of active ingredients and are more effective at improving skin texture. But this does not mean that serums are better.
Serums are not designed to replace cosmetics, but should be used in conjunction with cosmetics to target specific nuances; for example, to increase skin radiance or reduce inflammation. If you only use cream, your skin will sooner or later start to lack nutrients and moisture – and the cream is to blame for this. That’s why beauticians recommend applying a few drops of the product first and then “covering” it with a lotion or moisturizer after a few minutes.
Serums should not be used as a substitute for cosmetics, but in combination with cosmetics to do more specific things on certain nuances; for example, to increase skin radiance or reduce inflammation. If you only use cream, your skin will sooner or later start to lack nutrients and moisture – and the cream is to blame for this. That’s why beauticians recommend applying a few drops of the product first and then “covering” it with a cream or moisturizer after a few minutes.